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8 November, 06:10

How does a ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?

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  1. 8 November, 06:31
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    When the wave reaches the shore it starts to interact with the bottom of the ocean. As it interacts with the surface of the bottom it creates a drag slowing down the bottom of the wave. The drag on the trough of the wave causes the crest to increase in height.
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